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Travel Guide
Forget Florence! This Tuscan Hidden Gem Is More Authentic With Fewer Crowds
26
Mar
Mar
There are some trips that stick with you long after you’ve unpacked your bags. Trips that you find yourself lost in daydreams about or bringing up over coffee with your family and friends over and over.
My recent stay in Cortona, Italy at Relais La Corte Dei Papi was one of those.
From the moment my wife and I arrived, it felt like we had stepped into a fairytale—a perfect mix of luxury, charm, and Tuscan countryside magic.
If you’re looking for a place where time slows down and the beauty of Italy washes over you, this is a top contender.
Move Over Florence!
Before heading to Cortona, we spent some time in Florence—and to be honest, we were pretty underwhelmed.
Everyone we knew had hyped it up as a must-see destination, but after just a day, we were ready to leave.
The charm felt a bit lost in the sea of tourists, and it just didn’t live up to the romanticized image we had in our heads.
Yes, the Ponte Vecchio was stunning, and we found some good food, but overall we were underwhelmed and the city just didn’t match our vibe.
But then we arrived in Cortona—and suddenly, everything we hoped Florence would be came to life.
Peaceful streets, rich history, and authentic Tuscan charm without the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds. If you’re dreaming of an idyllic Italian escape, skip Florence and head straight to Cortona instead.
A Hotel With Soul and Style
One thing that really took our Cortona experience to the next level was where we slept each night.
But Relais La Corte Dei Papi isn’t just a place to sleep—it’s an experience.
The property itself is a work of art, and there’s a good reason: it actually has its own resident painter!
And she’s not just decorating the odd corner—she’s creating the entire vibe of the property.
Every mural, piece of furniture, and even the room keys are hand-painted, giving the whole place a bespoke, one-of-a-kind feel. We even had the chance to meet her while she was working on a new mural—brush in hand, creating more magic.
It was one of those unexpected, special moments that made the stay even more memorable.
Our Own Private Spa Retreat
Now, let’s talk about the room. Calling it a “room” feels almost wrong—it was more like our own private palace with a spa. The decor was straight out of a royal fantasy, with gilded accents and luxurious touches that made it feel impossibly elegant.
But the best part? The in-room jacuzzi and steam sauna.
After spending the day wandering Cortona’s cobblestone streets, we’d come back, pour a glass of wine, and unwind in the jacuzzi while watching a movie on our iPad. It was bliss, and a much-needed slow-down from our weeks of traveling.
Mornings were just as magical. We’d throw open the windows, letting the soft Tuscan breeze in, and sip tea while looking out over the rolling countryside. It was the kind of scene you’d expect from a movie—but there we were, living it.
Food That Feels Like Home
One of the most charming parts of staying at La Corte Dei Papi was the owner himself, David.
He didn’t just run the place—he became part of the experience. Every evening, he was out helping serve dinner, chatting with guests like an old friend.
And the food? Unbelievable. The flavors were rich and rustic, perfectly capturing Tuscany on a plate.
The wine was straight from the property’s own vineyard, and it was so good we couldn’t leave without buying some to take home (and we’ll be ordering more!).
Breakfast was just as memorable—a laid-back, self-serve spread with plenty of local treats, plus the option to order eggs made to order. With the morning sun streaming in through the windows, it was the perfect way to ease into the day.
We spoke with David during our stay and learned that the property had been converted from a family farm into the haven of luxury it is today. We walked the grounds with him, and it was heart-warming to hear how much passion he had for the experience he has created for guests to enjoy.
Your experience is the most important thing to the staff, and you can feel that in every interaction.
Cortona: A Peaceful Step Back in Time
As much as I loved the hotel, Cortona itself was the kind of place that instantly makes you want to slow down and soak it all in.
When you arrive, you park around the edges of town and walk through ancient stone walls, leaving the modern world behind.
Wandering the town felt like stepping into another era. Narrow alleys, weathered stone buildings, and no crowds. It was so quiet and peaceful we could take our time and enjoy every corner without feeling rushed.
One of the most magical moments was the hike to the top of town. At the summit, we watched the sunset from the Church of Santa Margherita, and it was absolutely breathtaking.
The golden light stretching over the Tuscan hills made it feel like time had paused just for us.
Hidden Gems and Local Connections
If you ever visit Cortona, do yourself a favor and stop by Galleria “Il Pozzo”. We stumbled upon it while exploring the town, and it ended up being one of the most memorable parts of the trip.
The owner, Ivan, who had personally renovated the entire space, told us about an incredible discovery he made—an ancient well hidden beneath what used to be a courtyard. Instead of covering it up, he turned it into a koi pond, creating this unique centerpiece that feels like a little portal to the past.
The gallery was filled with stunning pieces from local artists, and we couldn’t resist buying some art to take home. When we asked where we could find authentic Tuscan olive oil, the owner casually mentioned that his own son was a producer.
He even arranged for his son to bring bottles of their family-made olive oil directly to our hotel before we left. It was so good, we’re already planning to order more.
Exploring the Countryside
While we spent most of our time in Cortona itself, we couldn’t resist exploring the countryside.
The weather was perfect, so we took a scenic hike right next to the hotel, walking through fields and olive groves.
One evening, we decided to keep it simple and strolled to a nearby pizza shop for dinner.
Eating authentic Italian pizza under the Tuscan sky was the perfect way to cap off the day.
Tips for Visiting Cortona and La Corte Dei Papi
If you’re planning your own escape to Cortona, here are a few tips to make your experience even better:
- Rent a car: You’ll need it to get around the countryside and reach the hotel. Cortona itself is walkable, but you’ll want wheels for the surrounding areas.
- Catch the sunset from the Church of Santa Margherita: It’s a bit of a walk, but the view is worth every step!
- Visit Galleria “Il Pozzo”: Whether you buy art or just admire it, the space itself (and the koi pond!) is worth seeing.
- Bring home some local olive oil and wine: Trust me—you’ll want a taste of Tuscany once you’re back home.
A Place I’ll Always Dream Of
Leaving Relais La Corte Dei Papi and Cortona wasn’t easy. It’s the kind of place that seeps into your soul—where the wine tastes richer, the sunsets feel warmer, and the people welcome you like an old friend.
Whether it was soaking in our private jacuzzi, watching the sunset over the Tuscan hills, or chatting with local artists, every moment felt special. It wasn’t just a getaway—it was an experience I’ll be dreaming about for a long, long time.
**Travel Off Path was a guest of Relais La Corte Dei Papi, who helped with the creation of this itinerary by hosting some of our accommodations and attractions. Our opinions, recommendations, and suggestions remain our own.**
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This article originally appeared on TravelOffPath.com
Opinions expressed here are the author’s alone, not those of any bank, credit card issuer, hotel, airline, or other entity. This content has not been reviewed, approved or otherwise endorsed by any of the entities included within the post.
